Tag: travel

Stepping back in time: Sextantio Santo Stefano di Sessanio

Stepping back in time: Sextantio Santo Stefano di Sessanio

Santo Stefano di Sessanio, in Northern Abruzzo, Italy was a booming town during the reign of the Medici family in the 16th century. But in the 19th century, the town fell into poverty and most of its inhabitants decamped to find work and prosperity elsewhere. 

Top Tips for Split, Croatia

Top Tips for Split, Croatia

Split is the main gateway to the Dalmatian Islands and is the second largest city in Croatia. It is a sprawling, bustling city that most tourists will never see much of and they aren’t missing much. The ugly, communist era high rises don’t exactly invite 

I am a Type A traveler. Surprise, surprise!

I am a Type A traveler. Surprise, surprise!

When my resignation and plans to travel became public knowledge at Adecco, I had a number of really interesting conversations with people. Some who had their own plans bubbling away, some who were truly incredulous, some who nodded and smiled but clearly thought I was mad to walk away from a great job that I was great at, some who I think might have resented that I was able to make that decision at all. Far and away, the most common response was of happiness for me, tinged with a little envy. I heard the word ‘inspirational’ a lot. Which I, as a member of society determined not to be seen as arrogant must dismiss as complete nonsense. But secretly am very chuffed about. As far as I’m concerned, if my decision to take a leap of faith and spend some time to figure out the next step for me in life means something to someone else, that’s a wonderful, unintended consequence of an ultimately self-centered (with no apologies for that) decision!

After I published my first blog about my decision to leave, it became clear to me that people were not just going to be interested in the places I see and the food I eat and the wine I drink and the mountains I hike over the coming months, but also how I’m going in my search for what’s next. How the trip is impacting on me? Is it giving me what I need, what I hoped for? That’s the problem with putting yourself out there once, people seem to want you to do it again!

I’ve probably resisted writing anything along those lines, because I was waiting for something to say. And because I’m still not sure why it would be interesting to anyone else. But after a couple of days of slowing down here in beautiful Abruzzo and doing everything else but actually sitting down to write (booking the next portion of the trip, budget check, hike, watch Netflix, read, sort out photos…) I have finally decided to try and get some thoughts down. Because I promised I would, but not because I think I’ve really got much to say yet. But also, because I know the very act of writing, of putting thoughts into words on a page, helps me enormously to pull threads of decisions or conclusions or vague impressions into something that eventually makes sense. The difference being, I will hit publish on the blog page on this writing! So thanks for indulging me – you might see the eventual bigger picture before me!

Honestly, all I really know, is that I don’t know yet. I don’t have any answers. But I’m trying to notice what is floating through my head as I drive and walk and roam. I have come back several times to a conversation I had with a lovely woman at work not long before I left. She said to me, in a very genuine and caring but ultimately way too insightful for comfort way, “Kim, I will be really interested to see how you go from this job to not really having a purpose. How will you handle that?”. I can’t remember what I said to Lia at the time, but her comment hit a few nerves, about how I was perceived, how I conducted myself, how much of that was tied up in the job and how much was me, what is my purpose and what do I want it to be (a very popular word and concept and whole other topic).

Whilst I don’t know much yet, I know this. Type A personalities, with tendencies towards competitiveness, urgency and impatience don’t just suddenly become chilled out, relaxed, go with the flow humans because they are suddenly on the other side of the world with no real schedule other than the one they create for themselves. You create one for yourself. You turn travel and whatever else you need to into a job and make sure you are doing it perfectly.

So, I’ve been juggling studying, travel research and planning, blogging, social media posting, exercise, eating enough vegetables, eating the local foods, learning about wine etc etc and somehow turning that into busyness. And in true Type A style, I am self-critical when I haven’t done all of that perfectly. Which is obviously ridiculous. On a number of levels.

But I also know this, I don’t hate all of that and I don’t want to stop it completely! I am not someone who enjoys just showing up in a new town and seeing what’s available, at least not when it comes to a bed. I want to know where I’m sleeping that night. I want to know where I’m headed next. I don’t want to eat another crappy pizza or bag of chips because I haven’t done a little research about where to eat and I got too hungry so just ate at the nearest open place. I definitely don’t want to drink horrible wine (again).

I still feel like I need to apologise or excuse the fact that is the way I prefer to travel! Because it’s a bit demonised. You’re only a “real traveler” if you float with the wind and see where the road takes you, with no fixed plans or itinerary. Having every minute planned isn’t a journey, it’s a military operation. I fall somewhere in the middle of this spectrum. I want to allow enough room to be surprised and to be able to change things along the way and to move on if somewhere hasn’t grabbed me. But I am not, and will never be, a “go where the wind takes me” traveler. Because I am not that person in the rest of my life. The great thing about travel is that it lets me get a bit closer to that. I move more towards the middle.

While I’m still determined not to spend too much time yet fretting about ‘what’s next”, I will try and keep writing because I know it’s an important part of the process for me. In the meantime I have given myself next study period off. I’m taking one thing off the table. And for the next month I am moving slowly, spending longer in places, creating conditions for me to ponder and back a little bit back from the busyness. So Lia, that’s how I’m going with it for now. I’m not exactly operating at the velocity I was at Adecco, but nor have I stopped being me!

Busy busy busy
A new Wonder of the World? Plitvice Lakes: Croatia

A new Wonder of the World? Plitvice Lakes: Croatia

Of the original 7 Wonders of the World, only one remains, the Great Pyramids in Egypt.  There are plenty of other lists, if you’re looking to tick some wonders off your bucket list.  A quick Google search reveals: Conde Nast Traveller’s 2017 Wonders of the 

Random Roaming Ruminations: the “all three year olds are assholes” edition

Random Roaming Ruminations: the “all three year olds are assholes” edition

I’m travelling alone for large portions of this trip. That means a lot of time to ponder the things that creep into your brain as you are roaming about the world. For no reason whatsoever, other than perhaps you can relate or be entertained, here 

Ever considered Montenegro? You should.

Ever considered Montenegro? You should.

Sometimes you know almost immediately if a place is going to get under your skin. This will be different things for different people – you probably know what it is for you.  And it changes.  But for now, my soul needs a combination of natural beauty I can walk in, a fairly small, charming town full of history and some great food available at prices that won’t cut my trip short! I want to explore and learn about a place and see its sights, but not all day, not to the exclusion of having time in the ocean or lounging somewhere in the sun with a book and not where I can’t take some time to study and write. Kotor was perfect.

So, if you are making the journey to Croatia and tossing up whether it’s worth going south from Dubrovnik to check out Montenegro? Just do it. And stay in Kotor. I wish I had switched my time to five nights in Kotor and three in Dubrovnik (which deserves five, but I am not known for my love of crowds!).  Kotor is one of those spots where there is a lot to do if you are that way inclined, equally it’s a place where you can very happily just pass the days jumping off piers into the sea that constantly tricks your brain into thinking it’s a lake because it’s flat and surrounded by mountains.

It’s located in a jaw-droppingly beautiful bay, with mountains soaring above on either side. You get long dawns and dusks because the direct sun doesn’t come over the mountain until around 9am and is gone again at 6:30pm, but it’s light from 6am to 8pm.  The long purple and pink light at either end of the day infuses the place with a sense of calm and serenity. When the sun is at full strength in the middle of the day it is blazing hot – a good time to retreat to a cool cafe in the shade of the old town or an umbrella on one of the small beaches or piers with regular dips.  There are little piers every 5-10 metres along the waterfront between Kotor and Dobrata with ladders or rocks to climb out of the bay. For me, it encouraged quick dips and enough sun to dry out but I wasn’t lying out all day getting covered in sand.

I stayed in Dobrata, which is about 2km along the waterfront from the old town of Kotor. It’s a beautiful walk along the sea, although very hot in the middle of the day in late August.

There is a fantastic produce market along the walls of the old town. An Airbnb with a kitchen was great for me to cook up a few simple meals with fresh veges or just pick up some cheese and salami and figs and some good local wine and you’re set!

You can jump on a boat tour from the main park in town, there are leisurely, large, slow ones to the nearby town of Perast. Or do as I did and spend the best 30 euro possible and get a speed boat! I went with Submarine Tours, our driver was Goran and he was great. Only two couples and another solo traveler, a lovely Serbian woman shared the boat.  We sped 40 minutes to check out the secret tunnels in the hills along the bay where they hid submarines in WWI and then onto the Blue Cave to swim in water so blue it was almost fluorescent. The feeling of racing along the water, wind whipping your face, gorgeous scenery, a sunset and that swim – totally thrilling!

A walk up to the castle walls is a must. Go early. As in no later than 7am if you can. You will beat the crowds (I saw about 8 other people) and be walking in the cool of the morning (it took me about 40 mins to do the climb to the top with photo stops, lots of stairs but a reasonably easy climb if you’re fit and I saw a few people who were not at all in great shape doing it slowly but surely).

When I first got to the top, there was only one couple there.  They were sitting in a great vantage point, chatting in English and taking it all in. Perhaps 20 or 21 I would say.  As I walked up to them, I said, ‘Did you two get up early or are you still going from last night?’.  Then I noticed their pub crawl wristbands and everything about them – their body language, the look of complete serenity but with an underlying frisson, their cute, sidelong glances at each other – told me that this was a first meeting.  On the night they met, they had climbed up a mountain at 3am and had this stunning place to themselves for about 4 hours. I told them I was super impressed they were still going.  What I wanted to say was, ‘You will remember this night for the rest of your lives. Odds are you will probably watch each other’s lives on Facebook and go on to live and love other people and work and struggle and fall into routine.  But this night will never fade in your memory. And if you’re very lucky and choose to cultivate it, it will shape a sense of adventure and possibility for rest of your lives.’ I didn’t, because weird old lady, and in any event, I kind of got the sense they already somehow, subconsciously knew this.  There were so gloriously still and present with each other in that moment. I spent 30 minutes walking around that site, looking at the stunning beauty around me, but it’s those two I will always associate with Kotor.

A life moment
Top Tips for Dubrovnik, Croatia

Top Tips for Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik was seriously damaged by an earthquake in 1667 and most recently sustained further considerable damage during the armed conflict in 1991, but has managed to preserve its beauty, buildings and walls. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. A beautiful city, 

Kindness in action: Paros, Greece

Kindness in action: Paros, Greece

I promised I would tell you about our Paros festival! But first, it would be rude of me not to introduce you to some of the people who made our time in Paros what it was. Stratos: the empire building, charming, if sometimes slightly too enthusiastic in his good morning kisses, 

Done! How I packed carry on…for 7 months!

Done! How I packed carry on…for 7 months!

I’ve bloody gone and done it! Is there room for improvement? Yes. Should I probably go even lighter? Yes. Am I going to need to get other stuff along the way? Maybe. Will I be able to check my luggage as carry on if I’m travelling on a budget airline? Hell no. But, have I crammed my stuff for the next 7 or 8 months into a 40 litre back-pack and a Crumpler? Yep!

I’ve been going for a few weeks now and have carted my stuff around Abu Dhabi and Athens airports (oh the joy of not standing at a baggage carousel at the end of a long haul flight) and on ferries from Athens to Paros to Naxos.  I’ve walked around a big city on a walking tour, had some nights out on the town, done some hiking and some beach days and so far, so good! It’s been entertaining watching people cart around their massive 40kg suitcases at ports…

My Osprey Farpoint 40lt backpack weighed in at 10.4kg. It was the heaviest it will ever be with a full set of toiletries on board, but I still would like to get it down a bit. The Crumpler Pinnacle of Horror is pretty weighty at 5kg.  It has my Surface Pro, DSLR Camera, Kindle etc so there’s not a lot I can do about that! I know the winter gear is going to be annoying to carry around for the first 3 months or so, but I really didn’t want to be buying all the expensive stuff like jackets and decent merino gear when I was on the move. I think I will need to get some more winter gear once I hit Patagonia in mid November, but this should get me through any chilly mornings and nights when I’m hiking in the Dolomites in late September.

Anyway, let’s see how I go.  I’m already thinking about what else I can do without…this packing light thing is addictive. If you’d like any tips or want to check in with how this all works out as I go along, please just drop a comment below or shoot me an email at gourmetroaming@gmail.com. The biggest impact: ziplock bags to compress and packing cubes! I haven’t even looked at my winter stuff, it’s all packed away in a cube!

I’ve popped some links in the packing list to some of the gear I’m using or where I’ve purchased it. I’ve found Wild Earth to be a great one stop shop, particularly if you’re like me and prefer shopping online! Full disclosure, for some of these items, if you click through here and make a purchase, I will earn a small commission, but I only ever recommend things I’ve tried, tested and loved.

Packing List 

Summer Gear Winter Gear Other stuff
4 dresses Macpac puffa vest 8 undies
2 t-shirts Kathmandu trail rain jacket 2 day bras, 1 sports bra
1 singlet Thermal leggings Caribee folded day pack
1 pair of shorts Macpac Hiking pants – slim Small handbag
1 dressy top (black vest singlet) Long-sleeved warm top Chargers
1 chambray denim skirt (wish I’d made this shorts instead) Macpac merino black roll neck jumper Nikon DSLR5600 Camera and Tamron Lens
1 pair light weight long pants Jeans Scarf/sarong
1 long sleeved light shirt (for sun protection) 1 long sleeved shirt Toiletries – carry on size
1 running shorts Merrell Moab FST hiking shoes Cap
1 running singlet Black dress Rollies shoes Sunhat
1 bikini 4 hiking socks Surface Pro
1 pair Salt Water tan sandals PJs – shorts & singlet
1 pair Havaiana thongs Osprey Farpoint 40lt backpack 
Packing cubes, 2 dry sacks, ziplock bags

 



The best way to start the day: Paros, Greece

The best way to start the day: Paros, Greece

“I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery — air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, ‘This is what it is to be happy.’” – Sylvia Plath It doesn’t take much for me to be happy. It doesn’t require a flight across the world